I’ve spent the last three days in China’s western most city – Kashgar. It is still 160 odd kilometres to the nearest border, but it is widely recognised as the start of the Silk Road in China. It is a fabulous city. If I return, I’ll come in via one of the ‘Stans and see some of the countryside, but the city itself has plenty to offer.
The city skyline is dominated by the Kunlun Tower. It is a must visit at sunset to appreciate the sprawl of the Ancient City, which is where locals and domestic tourist let their hair down each evening.
The food scene is sensational and very different to the east of China. Lamb and sheep dominate on the grills. Skewers are prepared from meat cut of carcasses in front of you. Mianfeizi is a speciality made from sheep lung mixed with starch and stuffed sheep intestine. Let’s just say it is a visual feast.
What’s a skewer of meat without beer and most places have a beer fridge bulging with varieties of Wusu. Wusu is the beer of Xinjiang. It has been owned by Carlsberg since 2015, which explains the presence of Carlsberg and Tuborg in the fridges as well. I’ve only seen one can of Tsingtao in a Day & Night convenience store (7/11 in Xinjiang).
I’m a massive fan of the Wusu White, which is a popular style in China. The Wusu Red and Wusu Green are your standard Chinese pale lager, with Wusu Green being a mid-strength. Wusu Classic is also popular. According to Untappd Wusu has brewed 29 varieties, so I’ve got some work to do.
But beer drinking in Xinjiang isn’t just limited to Wusu. There’s a style of beer that I haven’t seen before that turns out to be reasonably prevalent in this part of the world. Milk skin beer is made with Xinjiang milk skin, which is made by slowly simmering milk. When mixed with beer it creates a slightly sour version of an Australian milk bottle lolly. I’ve seen at least theee varieties of it, and there’s version that adds candied Hawthorn to the mix. I avoided that – but I’ll have to give it a go if I see it again.
The only things resembling bars that I could find in Kashgar were in the Ancient City. Along the north eastern corner under the gaze of Kunlun Tower there’s a strip of tables to which eager staff will bring beers and food. At night things really liven up with bands playing about 20 metres apart. I counted about 6 of them. A couple of coffee shops also serve beer, which is where I had a Fogcutter Double IPA from Lost Coast brewery. Definitely lost and nowhere near a coast.
A terrific place to gain an appreciation for how the Ancient City sprawls across 4 and half square kilometres is to go up the Kunlun Tower. There’s an outdoor observation with 360 degree views. There’s also a bar immediately below. I was prepared for a solid session marvelling at the views – but no beer! Cocktails only. They’ve missed a trick here.
I’m in Xinjiang for another 8 days, so plenty more Wusu to try, maybe another Milk Skin beer or two.
