Residents of Sydney’s Northern Beaches are often heard referring to their domain as God’s Country. People might think that that is a little presumptuous, but after one trip on the Manly Ferry on a sunny, a swim at one of the many glorious beaches and a stroll on a lofty headland at sunrise or dusk, visitors can be heard to mutter – “Bastards – they’re right”. And just when one thinks it can’t get any better, we get two new breweries thrown into the glorious mix.
illiards and I made a hit and run visit to Nomad Brewing Co. last weekend. They’d been kind enough to sling us a bait to their public opening in our capacity as the Northern Beaches slackest beer bloggers (more recently, it must be said) – so it was the least we could do. illiards figured that given Nomad is no more than a stagger from his place – he’ll get plenty of opportunity to give the place a more detailed going over in the future – a hit and run would be fine. It is a good set up. There’s the gleaming brewing equipment, which provides 25hl of capacity and a great little bar area to get your growler fills and have a sample of Nomad Brewing’s offerings. At $15 for a growler fill of the Sideways Pale, I think illiards mightn’t need to wash his growler – just come up regularly.
There’s three beers initially on offer. Rather than re-type, just read the info in the photo. The Sideways Pale Ale is very sessionable – and I’ll be up there with a growler this afternoon for a $15 fill. The Jet Lag IPA and the Long Trip Saison are fine examples of their respective styles. It looks like Nomad will be bottling their offerings as well. You can’t have enough beer clothing in your wardrobe and Nomad have outdone themselves with a broad range of gear, which goes beyond the standard beer t-shirt. Nomad proudly proclaim their Northern Beaches home on their gear (it’s sexier than saying “Brookvale”), but you’ll find
‘em at 5 Sydenham Road, Brookvale Road. Heaps better than the Brookvale Hotel’s bottlo! Nomad also offers membership at various levels and they are promising seasonals and special tastings. Will pay to follow their website. All the best – Nomad.
I’ve been coming on and off to Estonia for about 15 years now, and I always opted for their tume (dark) beers. However, following a visit this trip to the large island of Saaremaa for the first time, I really fell for the ‘farm’ beer as well as rye brews, both taking off in the craft beer sector, to such an extent that even the big boys are producing them now too. Today’s were sampled in an excellent 4-floor tavern that was transformed from an old windmill in 1974 in the centre of the port town of Kuressaare (host of an outstanding castle / fort), and the fayre we were served up was superb too.
The traditionally dressed waitress was extremely friendly – I quite forgot I was in Estonia! The Pahtla regional “talu olu” (farm beer) came straight from the barrel, a draught sahti-style (“kodu” in Estonian) beer worth making the trip for. 7.6% beers are the sort of refreshment a farmer needs after a hard day.
I’ve continued to spread the word about BOTF, and it intrigues people that an Australian beer blog will go to such extremes to send its correspondents so far around the world. “Your round!” I explained to my new friend.
“You’re rounder,” he retorted. I hope you feel you are more informed about Estonian beers through BOTF – it’s surprising how a country of just over 1 million folk can have developed so many varieties of ales,. I leave you with Poide rye beer that to me sums up Estonian culture… independent, local (Saaremaa), Eastern European, new, innovative, earthy, a pagan attitude to beer, a real dark horse. It’s 5.2%, with the same hazy brown colour of rye bread – matching its flavour perfectly. Cheers, or “Tervist!” as they say round here…
One of my favourite small bars in West Wynyard is The SG Bar or as I prefer to know it – Spooning Goats. As funky and as hipster are the Barber Shop, Baxters, Ramblin’ Rascal Rose and their ilk – Spooning Goats is a far less assuming and more homely and welcoming establishment. There’s no posing here – it’s like drinking at your mate’s place. It can be tricky to find, but head South along York Street and just past the Forbes, on the left handside look for the “I Heart SG” sign. You won’t be sorry
And Spooning Goats is loyal to their mates. HopDog BeerWorks is much the same as Spooning Goats in that they’re a small brewer having a red hot go without attitude. They are one of Australia’s smallest brewers (I think that’s changing) – but they still pack as mighty punch. Yesterday they celebrated their third birthday and in honour Spooning Goats laid on a tap takeover. The list is below, but Redhopulous is a cracking, cracking beer and one of their greatest hits. I also fondly remember a pumpkin beer they did.
I raised a glass of Saison Because to the best small brewer in South Nowra amongst the happy throng at Spooning Goats. Other than sipping a sample at their cellar door, I could think of no more appropriate place.
Here’s three cheers – HopDog – hope there’s many more. BTW – have to try the Halloumi and bean pie next time. (Insert Homer drooling sound)
An Irish pub in the middle of town, or “Iiri Pubi” if you speak Eesti (Estonian), Sweet Rosie has been open for 4 years, following in the footsteps of a punk bar that preceded it… I guess punk is now truly dead, the last bastions that survived in this remote corner of the Baltics now extinct. Anyway, Sweet Rosie comes recommended from a gent from Boston I met, and I’m glad that Sam Malone is personified instead by his younger Viking girlfriends. I decided on local, popular favourite beer – the charming Kaia served me a half litre of Saku Originaal.
Saku established as a brewery in 1820, and is still going strong being brewed just outside of Tallinn, albeit under foreign ownership now. The “Original” is a light lager beer, only 21 years old (so hardly original) and uses crystal filtration to preserve it instead of pasteurisation… it slips down nicely at 5.2%. Too many of these lagers and the writing gets sporadic – best to move onto the 4.6% “Kuld” that hails from the same Saku stables, boasting to be the “cream of beers – masterfully balancing the strength of Nordic barley malt and velvety smoothness of sunny German Hallertau aroma hops… the purest taste of Kuld was achieved thanks to the German beer Purity Law Reinheitsgebot.”. I love marketing.
Linda served the next pint with the same Estonian grim expression that I have become accustomed to – don’t expect any service staff to give you a grin like a Cheshire Cat – perfectly charming lady, just culturally perfect. The Kuld is fine too, and could well wash down some Irish fayre (fish & chips / Irish breakfast / Rosie’s soft beefsteak) or, indeed, offerings from Parnu bay: herring plate; Greaves a la Kamikaze; or crabclaws with dillweed sauce… I’ll definitely try Kamikaze! Nothing ventured, nothing gained, I suppose.
The bar is quite crowded, and I wait for 15 minutes. I notice the other beers on tap: Guinness (Irish pub!); Newcastle Brown; Leffe Blonde; Staropramen; and grapefruit Sinebrychoff Long Drink, as well as Weston’s cider and Kiss perry. And then… St Peters Ruby Red & St Peters Cream Stout, both 2 miles from where I now live in Norfolk! It’s strange what home boutique beers travel as far as you do.
Ah, here is the fried bacon & soured cream (Kamikaze) snack – clearly ‘Kamikaze’ on the basis that the obvious local ingredient readily available and core ingredient to most dishes round here is missing: cabbage. And what else would you expect to be served with bacon in an Irish pub? Absolutely Kamikaze!
Apparently, Veerev is the original Estonian pub in Parnu, wooden floors that no doubt in the olden days would have been covered in sawdust. The eclectic paraphernalia on the walls gives this joint a welcoming feeling to any stranger, complimented by the friendly face behind the bar.
In the centre of the pub is a wooden trapdoor, where they keep all the
bodies beer. I’m advised that I should come back again during the last week in October for ‘British Week’ when there will be some British beer on tap, as well as the Ambassador making an appearance. The pub is busy for a Tuesday lunchtime, and we opt for indoors as the weather is inclement, even though there is a large square umbrella covering the outdoor smoking area.
I’ve chosen an A.Le Coq lager, the only beer on tap – it’s Estonian, and like Coopers or VB, is the popular quite drinkable Brand. On the practical, chunky tables, there’s a civilised game of chess underway, eagerly overseen by drinking companions with nothing better to do on this rainy day in Parnu.
Come to Veerev for a homely pint!
Let’s face it, family recipes passed down through word of mouth, generation to generation, is a dying custom. In the European Baltic region, when nearly 1 million native Estonian speakers came close to preserving some sense of heritage when 20 odd years ago at the point of Independence from USSR they offered their Principality to Prince Edward (who spuriously turned down the offer), the locals have instead opted to embrace modernity – no longer do farmers’ wives inherit the family brewing secrets from their aging grandmothers… they are much more likely to coerce said relatives from their lifetime accumulated finances to fund a start-up. It should be noted that my visiting 10Gb broadband SIM set be back a mere £2/week! One such venture nicely combines a bit of both worlds – a traditional rye ale recipe locally brewed meeting the global growth in craft beers.
Ollenaut is a new 100% Estonian owned boutique brewer with a low-cost Facebook-only virtual trading door that produces the above pictured traditional rye ale as well as a golden light beer, but is still experimenting in the market, being only a year old. The rye ale is a bitter, yeasty, dark, toasted-Eastern-European-heavy-loaf experience – 4.8% it packs a small punch when consumed chilled, 2 bottles at a time, on the promenade bar. It is worth trying (not just because it’s based on a family recipe), and is readily available in local supermarkets too.
Kodu Olu, on the other hand is Estonia’s big-boy brewer’s excursion into keeping the traditional brewing methods alive. Pictured in situ whilst out picking mushrooms and fishing with the boys from my new local (free food scavenging is also a throwback widely encouraged), this golden, hazy sahti beer weighs in at 5%. What makes this beer so exciting is that I no longer need to use my 10-year old juniper tankard to enjoy the traditional flavours of local beers – these vassals were sold to tourists to pour your big-brand tasteless lagers into in an effort to give you another reason to stay and come back as a tourist (at the last count, there were only 15 Brits actually living in Parnu). This old fashioned beer is made without hops, the malted wort filtered through juniper branches, and produces an orange, cloudy, juniper-soured bitter that is subtle enough to gulp down, yet flavoursome enough to shout about. Both highly recommended with local hand-picked fungi and barbeque-hot-smoked fish.
Long live the European traditions!
Parnu, Estonia’s summer capital, nestled in the heart of a beer-stein shaped bay in the Baltic Sea, boasts a rather unusual drinking experience…. a bar in the sauna. Actually, this was no ordinary sauna, but the Russian equivalent, a “banya”, so one really shouldn’t be surprised, I suppose, that alcohol was on tap – and whereas this correspondent was more familiar with the taking of bottles of frozen vodka into banyas in Moscow, it was a pleasant relief to be able to enjoy a longer, more refreshing alternative in this former Russian colony.. Although I was not allowed to take pictures in the banya (due to the European nature of things with naked customers wandering around), I did however manage to persuade the buxom serving wench to stand aside at the bar so that I could quickly capture a shot of the two dark beers that I demolished.
Both bottles were served ice cold from the fridge and managed to quickly quench a demanding thirst – however, it’s fair to say that the dark cherry beer on the right improved with flavour as it got a little warmer (but not as warm as room temperature) in the natural heat of the sauna – as I sat on the top shelf wearing my felt hat, glugging away merrily, it was only thanks to the intense inferno infiltrating from the wooden seats through my doubled-up towel that I suddenly realised quite how much I was being braised alive. I can only imagine that any cannibals would have appreciated the soft malty overture of the cherry beer with its complementing sweet, fruity scent, and a lingering almond after-taste, should I have overstayed my welcome indoors. The other “tume” (pronounced ‘too-mey’), Estonian for “dark” beer, was actually a traditional dark lager, with a robust breadiness in between a creme caramel – the perfect accompaniment to the cannibal’s feast. I look forward to sampling some of Estonian’s other boutique beers, which thanks to 95% breweries owned by international Brands, the beers should not be too difficult to find, albeit perhaps not in such exotic locations like a banya. Sadly, the Viru Olu brewery that makes these two beauties is owned by a large Danish brewer, also following the global trend for craft beers being consumed by the big boys – yet, the Danes have dutifully not diluted the traditions in making these local beers. “Cheers!” from Estonia…