
Your correspondent is in Shanghai for the first time since 2015. With #123 in tow the first night was spent on the Bund watching one of the world’s great skylines put on a mesmerising light show.


An awesome place to do that is The Captain, a rooftop bar that I first visited in 2009. I’m glad to report that 16 years later it has survived and thrived. It even has merch.

The Captain isn’t right on the Bund, but the building in front of it isn’t as tall as others so you can see the Pudong skyline in all its glory. The Captain is easier to find these days with plenty of on street signage, beckoning visitors. The rickety elevator to the 5th floor hasn’t changed though. Long live the Captain.

We had hoped to start our evening at the Bund Brewery (a block from the Captain), but that looks like it has bitten the dust. There’s a venue at the site, but it was closed on a night when the Bund was buzzing. But as we walked around the block to The Captain, a light on the footpath proclaimed “Binge Craft Beer”. We looked up – “From Qingdao – Beer Bar”. The definition of Fortuitous™.

Whilst The Captain has shown great resilience, I don’t think the Binge Craft Beer will be in Shanghai in 16 years time. Four beers are offered from a medium sized temprite. The less than enthusiastic barman looked surprised that we wanted a beer and it took 10 minutes to pour one and a half pints as he grappled with gas and froth issues.

My American IPA wasn’t half bad. Looked great and had a delicious blend of caramel and hop. No idea of the ABV – could have been anything. #123 was less enamoured with his German White. Lacked carbonation, but for mine it had the right flavours. The venue is tiny, the bathroom is appalling and you just have to wonder why they are bothering. RMB106 ($23) for a Stein, which blew #123’s mind, but that’s the go on the Bund.

On the actual Bund is the Waldorf Astoria – home to the “Long Bar”, which is allegedly Asia’s longest bar at 34m. #123 was blown away by the opulence of the venue. I had to revive him with smelling salts after we paid RMB200 ($43) for 2 tiny stubbies of Tsingtao that #123 estimated would cost RMB5 each at Family Mart. Welcome to The Bund.


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