My digs in New York City was a hotel near the corner of 9th Avenue and W 40th St – close to the geographical centre of the evocatively named Hells Kitchen. (57th street, 8th Avenue, 34th street, Hudson River). It was the home the original Soup Nazi stand from Seinfeld and Studio 54 both long gone. It is also the home to many a fine dive bar. Some may consider the adjective “fine” oxymoronic, but I love a good dive bar.
What is a “dive bar”? Dictionary.com defines it to be “a dingy, disreputable or seedy bar or tavern”. Wikipedia says, amongst other things, “a small, unglamorous, eclectic, old-style drinking establishment with inexpensive drinks; it may feature dim lighting, shabby or dated decor, neon beer signs, packaged beer sales, cash-only service, and local clientele”. If there’s a couple of TVs showing sport – then give me a dive bar any time over a shiny, schmick high-priced pub or bar.
Type in “Best dive bars in Hell’s Kitchen” and at or near the top of any list will be Rudy’s Bar & Grill. This venerable institution has been slinging cheap beers and hot dogs since 1933. And the beers are the cheapest I encountered in my short trip. The house lager – Rudy’s Blonde is $3 and 4.3% ABV. The Rudy’s Red is a solid malty ale at $4 and 5.2% ABV. I didn’t have a famous free hot dog, but had a good chat to some locals as we watched Thursday night football. Rudy’s became my go-to.
If a measure of “diveyness“ is how dimly lit a bar is, then Blue Ruin would be high on the list. Literally 5 doors from my hotel, Blue Ruin is a dark and grungey place playing punishingly loud hard rock. The bar staff range from heavily pierced and tattooed ladies to baby-faced young blokes fresh from high school. Always packed.
An honourable mention goes to Olde City – Cheesesteaks and Brew. This place is a home away from home for Philadelphians. Yeungling and Victory are on tap and the excellent and reasonable food menu is heavy with Cheesesteaks with all the trimmings. The staff will turn on the commentary for the footy, which is always good (a talent some Northern Beaches establishments could teach).
There’s just a ton of places to grab a beer in this area. I barely scratched the surface. Irish bars abound, no surprise given the heritage of Hell’s Kitchen. I wonder they are mutually exclusive categories. Irish bar, dive bar, Irish dive bar – who knows. Scallywags is a good example of the genre- great live music.
Rudy’s Bar & Grill: 627 9th Avenue, New York City
Blue Ruin Bar: 538 9th Avenue, New York City
Olde City Cheesesteaks & Brew: 576 9th Avenue, New York City
back of the ferry 